Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw 

A stripped screw turns a five-minute job into a head-scratcher. The slots in the head are rounded or mangled, the driver slips, and every attempt s eems to make it worse. Below you will find clear, field-tested methods to free stuck fasteners in wood, metal, and plastics, plus quick prevention tips. If you are working toward your nvq level 3 electrical installation or building confidence for site assessments, these techniques are everyday essentials. New to the trade and want a faster start, our fast track electrician course can get you hands-on quickly. 

Why screws strip in the first place 

Common causes include using the wrong bit size or type, driving at an angle, overtightening, worn or low-quality bits, corroded threads, and trying to power-through without a pilot hole. Preventing a s trip is easier than fixing one, so always seat the bit fully, keep pressure in line with the screw, drill pilots in hardwoods or metal, and stop as soon as the clutch cams out. 

Safety and prep checklist 

• Eye protection and gloves 

• Correct bit set, including fresh Phillips, Pozi, Torx and flat blades 

• Penetrant or light oil for corroded threads 

• Small hammer, centre punch, locking pliers 

• Variable-speed drill with forward and reverse 

• Left-handed drill bits, if available 

• Dedicated extractor bits, if you have them 

There is two quick checks you can do before you start: confirm which way the fastener should turn to loosen, and decide whether the surrounding surface must be kept pristine, which will affect your method choice. 

Start with the gentlest fixes 

1. Increase friction: Lay a wide rubber band, piece of grip tape, or a bit of steel wool over the head. Press the bit down firmly and turn slowly. This often works on lightly rounded Phillips and Pozi heads. 

1. Seat and tap: Place a manual screwdriver that best matches the head, then tap the handle with a hammer while turning. The tap helps seat the tip and break micro-bonds on the thread. 

1. Go larger or go flat: A slightly larger driver can bite edges the original misses. If the head is Phillips or Pozi, a snug flat blade across two remaining walls can sometimes get purchase. 

1. Locking pliers: If any of the head is proud of the surface, clamp on firmly and twist. Rock the pliers clockwise and anticlockwise to start movement rather than forcing a single hard turn. 

Step up the persuasion 

1. Manual impact driver: Ideal for stubborn fasteners in metal enclosures and hinges. Preload the driver in the loosening direction, press hard, then strike the end with a hammer. The combined downward force and twist reduces cam-out. 

1. Cut a new slot: Use a rotary tool or thin hacksaw to cut a clean, straight slot across the head, then drive out with a flat blade. Mask surrounding finishes first. 

1. Left-handed drill bit: In reverse, a left-hand bit can bite and walk the screw out while you drill a shallow pilot in the head. Keep speed low and pressure steady. 

1. Heat or cold to break bonds: For metal into metal, a brief burst of heat around the boss, then cooling, can break threadlockers. For plastics, avoid heat, use penetrant and patience instead. 

1. Penetrating oil: Apply, tap the head lightly to wick oil into threads, wait a few minutes, then try again with steady torque. Reapply if needed. 

Dedicated extractor workflow 

1. Extractor bits, two-step method: 

• Step A, prep: Drill a shallow, centred hole into the head using the burnisher or drill end of your extractor, slow speed, straight alignment. 

• Step B, extract: Flip to the extractor end, set drill to reverse, apply firm pressure and low speed until the bit bites. Keep the drill aligned, then continue turning until the screw backs out. 

Tip, choose the smallest extractor that will grip, this reduces damage to the surrounding material. 

Last-resort options 

1. Drill the head off: For screws holding a plate or bracket, drill only the head until it separates from the shank, remove the fixture, then grip the shank with pliers to back it out. This preserves the thread in the base material. 

1. Glue or weld a nut: In metalwork, bonding a nut to the head gives you a hex to turn. Epoxy can work on light loads, a quick weld is stronger if the m aterial and environment allow. 

1. Chuck-and-turn: If the head is round and proud, clamp a drill chuck directly over it, tighten hard, set to reverse, and turn slowly. 

Material-specific advice 

• Metal: Protect finishes with masking and thin card. Use penetrant first, then impact driver or left-hand bit. Avoid prying that will mar adjacent panels. 

• Wood: Heads are often flush or just below surface. Extractors and slot-cutting are your friends. If the head shears off, drill a neat plug around the shank with a plug cutter, remove, and dowel the hole for a clean repair. 

• Plastics and uPVC: Go gently. Excess heat, aggressive solvents, or heavy tapping can crack bosses. Use friction-boosting tricks, penetrant that is plastic-safe, and steady hand pressure. 

How to stop stripped screws before they start 

• Use quality bits, replace worn tips, and match Pozi vs Phillips correctly. 

• Drill pilots sized to the screw and material, especially in hardwood, sheet metal, and masonry plugs. 

• Keep the driver in line with the screw, apply firm axial pressure, use a clutch setting that slips before the head rounds. 

• For long or binding screws, drive part way, back out a quarter turn to clear swarf, then continue. 

• In exterior work, choose corrosion-resistant fixings to reduce future seizure. 

When to walk away and rethink 

If the head is disintegrating, the surrounding surface is delicate, or the screw secures a safety-critical part, pause and reassess. Sometimes removing the component to a bench, or switching to the drill-the-head method, saves time and damage. For inspection records and handover packs, good notes and photos of your chosen method are just as important as the result, a habit reinforced in electrical inspection and testing training. 

Build your skills with Elec Training 

Practical fixes like these are part of daily life for working sparks. If you are assembling an on-site portfolio or aiming for Gold Card status, our nvq level 3 electrical installation route shows you how to evidence safe isolation, fault rectification, and professional repairs. Prefer a quicker, structured start, explore our fast track electrician course with small groups and real boards. Want something closer to home, see upcoming dates on Electrician Courses Bromsgrove and speak with our advisors about the best next step. 

Stuck screws happen to everyone, but with the right technique, patience, and a tidy workflow, you will get them moving without damaging the job. If you want practice on live-feeling rigs, plus tutor feedback on the safest, cleanest method for each situation, Elec Training is here to back you up from classroom to site.